It’s been the better part of a year since moving to the rural Washington countryside. As previously shared, it’s been a phenomenal journey thus far. Of course, anytime one moves, be it across the street or to another country, change will, inevitably, ensue. This is particularly the case with given that I relocated from the 2nd largest metropolitan area in the US to what effectively amounts to “the middle of nowhere.” I was well aware that there would be many interesting and unusual changes associated with such a move which I thought would be excellent fodder for this “Country Squire Chronicles” series here.
Anywho, as I’ve been settling in and getting the nest all squared away, I’ve been taking copious notes on living life far afield to share with interested parties. I’ve discussed specific aspects such as the significantly reduced expenses and lack of bureaucracy of our move previously, so today I’ll focus on the more broad changes I’ve encountered. I’ll bucket them into what I consider to be the two key characteristics of a living environment: Place and People.
For the cursory reader, I’ll get this out of the way right now. I love where I live. This has not always been the case, but I now, literally, live in a place where people come to vacation. To be fair, I did so previously in So. Cal, but you get my drift. I am in a rural hamlet, snugged deep within a high mountain valley betwixt two of the state’s largest national forests. I still remain in awe of the natural beauty. For example, when I take my trash out (read: haul it in my truck 31 miles away to the county landfill) I am rewarded with a drive on a small 2 lane highway that follows the gorgeous Columbia River replete with some of the nation’s most beautiful flora and fauna.
Oh, speaking of fauna, that is one massive change we’re becoming accustomed to living out here.
DANGEROUS PREDATORS
The world is, and always has been, a large and, ofttimes, extremely frightening place for Homo sapiens. Irrespective of where one chooses or is forced to reside, there lurk deep within the shadows all manner of hideous, dangerous predators. However, it’s not every day that you actually see a full-sized billboard warning you of them.
Back in So. Cal., dangerous predators were aplenty. And they came in many guises, such as cracked-out, car-jacking bangers; Rohypnol droppin’ frat bros; creepy, weenie-flashing pervs in schoolyards; sub-prime mortgage lenders; and personal injury attorneys to name but a few.
So, imagine my shock and surprise seeing billboard signs, with lurid photographs, outing the local dangerous predators such as pumas and wolves, along the sundry thoroughfares with digits to the local Departments of Wildlife. Huh? This was definitely a change.
While it is an interesting characteristic of where I now live, I am wise enough to take heed. Particularly when a puma had killed my parent’s llama and decimated a neighbor’s gaggle of kitties a few years prior to us moving here. Even more so when Ms. Fate, during our 1st month here, ventured outside at 1am to take some moonlight snaps and a puma growled at her – From 50 Feet Away!
In early Fall, I went to harvest some big, juicy apples from the trees on our property with visions of Yuletide apple cider when I saw something odd. It looked like…Well, it looked like shit. Big shit. Huge shit. And then I looked to the branches and saw that the zillions of apples that were there yesterday were now gone? Again, Huh?
Then I saw the apple chunks in the poo. Then I saw the massive claw marks on the trees.
In a thousands of a second I thought, “Pumas are cats and cats are obligate carnivores. Also, pumas do not have a 6” rectum,” which was the diameter of the ‘apple loaf’ in front of me. Then l actually got a little twinge of fear when I leaned in to see the depth of the marks on the tree. There’s only one thing that could have done this – a bear(s). I spent the rest of the afternoon getting all the remaining apples off the trees to mitigate the temptation to return (though they did). At least they left me enough apples for a couple gallons of hard cider to enjoy during the holidays.
I am still overwhelmed by living with puma, bear and other wild critters, but I’ll take this kind of dangerous predator over the human variety any day. Aside from that, having a herd of deer living on our property and seeing them eat every single morning and evening is priceless. So are the flock of turkeys. So are the zillions of birds, so strange to me I had to get a book to learn more. It’s both a treat and privilege to live this close to nature. The bonus is that for the Fuzzy Fates, it’s the best “Cat TV” ever!
And look, there’s always a dark to be terrified of, it just may manifest in an entirely different fashion depending upon one’s circumstances and surroundings. For me, now living in the country, it’s mutated from, “I should lock my doors lest some junkie attempt to break in and steal my 8-year old iPad” to wondering, “Can a bear smell that 5 gallons of apples I have stored in the fridge in the garage?”
THE PEOPLE
Most of you know a) I lived my adult life in Southern California and b) I am not its biggest fan. As such, I was absolutely ready to forsake many of its denizens. Particularly people like “Mrs. Karen Lululemon,” the quintessential 40-something living stereotype with bleached-blonde hair and grotesquely massive plastic boobs accompanied by her unruly children named “Brayden” or “Decimal” (or whatever noxious moniker she’s saddled them with), who takes an eternity to choose a non-sugar, non-fat “artisanal scone” at some boutique patisserie.
Or, “Craig”, the dude from Omaha, behind the counter with Big Dreams who’s preoccupied mentally rehearsing his script pitch to NBC or Netflix to get a development deal and finally be able to go to Perch for brunch and order some avocado smeared on toast and a glass of OJ for $64.78.*
As jubilant as I was to bid adieu to the Karen & Craig’s of So. Cal, I was a trifle trepidatious of simply exchanging them for what I refer to as “Johnny Corndog.” Y’all know the tropes. They entail those with a penchant for things such as buckets of Coors Light tallboys, Ford F250 trucks, NASCAR, Oxycodone & Creationism.
While I’ve seen a few Johnny Corndogs, and other strains of countrified freakazoid, on rare occasion, pretty much everyone I’ve interacted with has been very cool, approachable and – get this – openly nice. Most refreshing of all to me is the absence of any pretense, any artifice. For example, when you go to the local Farmer’s Market, it’s full of actual farmers selling amazing goods from their actual farms at insanely low prices, rather than a bearded hipster with hand tattoos in distressed flannel talking to me about ‘peak kale season’ while unironically charging $6 for an ‘organic’ artichoke.
In spite of the pandemic, I was also fortunate to make a handful of awesome, smart, fun, cat-lovin’ friends (2 of whom are also early retirees my age) who share a love of board games and geek culture and we get together at least once a week. Once things settle down, I hope to make some additional fishing & hiking pals and volunteer at the local cat sanctuary.
If that weren’t good enough, I’m less than an hour away from the “Big Smoke” where I can put on a suit and go to the ballet, check out killer modern art, enjoy high-quality food and libations, and even start a band with people who share my extremely unusual taste in music. Overall, I am loving the people where I live!
IS THERE ANYTHING YOU DON’T LIKE?
The reality is that no place is Eden, no thing a panacea. While living where I do is pretty damn awesome, there are two minor things, while not even close to deal breakers, I am not necessarily enamored with.
The first is referred to as “bundling,” which many know basically means organizing your retailing so you can get it all done in one fell swoop since it’s a 50+ mile round-trip trek to town. Since I despise shopping, I’ve always done this, but the problem here is that any trip into (or has you even passing near) a town still seems to devolve into, and be sullied by, a retail experience. I always think, “Well I’m going fishing today, but I should swing by the market when I drive by to get ‘X’ since I’m already here and not planning on being back for 6 days.” This is extremely annoying and, admittedly self-inflicted to an extent. I’m aiming to change this with a dedicated weekly trip.
Before I reveal the next, I will kindly ask you to sit down. Seated? Okay, ready? There is no direct internet access. Yes, let me repeat that. I have NO direct internet access. Most people’s reaction to this is, “Oh, I could never live there.”
The “internet connection” is a (2-bar) Verizon hotspot using my phone. And, it works just fine-ish. Since I don’t do anything particularly bandwidth taxing, it’s not a big whoop. Yes, I could pay nearly $5K for an unbreakable 2-year contract to get shitty satellite service with a monthly bandwidth limit I’d blow through in 5 days, but I’ve decided to just tough it out until Elon Musk’s affordable (and hopefully less shitty) Space-X Starlink service goes live next year (also hopefully).
So there you have it. All-in-all, the move has been great and I love where were at. Sure, there’s been some changes, but, for the most part, I actually like them and those we don’t aren’t a big deal. Well, I got to roll as the snow is starting to come down and I need to christen my new kick-ass snow shovel. I’m pretty sure this experience will result in much hilarity for the next installment of the Country Squire Chronicles!
AUTHOR’S NOTE:
I will state that I am a bit contrite for using the pejorative term, “hick” in the title. However, I will also confess that any reservation I had was immediately superseded by the irrestibility of shoehorning in a nod to Liz Phair’s magnificent debut album (which, itself, is a reference to the Rolling Stones). Wait, did I start this article with a killer triple-reference? Yes, I think I did.
* I promise that this is definitely** the last of my poison-barbed lampooning of Southern California.
** Maybe
Getting away from the crowds for the country sounds fantastic. I too am getting wary of crowds everywhere I turn in my metropolitan area. I recently went on a road trip to Montana and Wyoming and it wasn’t till we drove back into California that I realized just many damn people live here. It’s so crowded and I had grown numb to it. Lines for everything. That trip to other parts of the country changed my paradigm.
Not having internet would drive me nuts, but I think I’d be able to adapt. Might help slow life down a bit and be able to do some good reading. You mentioned the Columbia River, do you fish sturgeon out there?
Hey Noel! Thanks much for stopping by to leave a comment. While there are far worse places to live than CA, I too was over it. 23 million people just became too much for me.
It’s definitely been great up here and I love the ‘elbow room.’ It seems to make people far more friendly. Yeah, the Verizon hotspot Internet is not awesome, but it still is workable.
Yep, there are monster sturgeon down the road in the Columbia. Sadly, I missed the season what with getting settled, but I did befriend a dude who’s got the spots dialed in, so next year for sure!
Holy bear claws on the apple tree!!! The sun was rising over the mountains here in West Virginia as I was reading this post and thinking about all the “bear boxes” in this community where we’re staying for a few days. YIKES! At least they got your apples and not you or Mrs. Fates. 😉 I agree that no place is perfect, but it seems you’ve found a place that’s as good as it gets, at least by your standards, so that’s great! With all the mayhem this past summer in Philadelphia, I’m seriously considering leaving, even the immediate suburbs seem too close to “civilization” at this point. But we’ll see where I land in the years to come. Interesting journey you’ve been on. I’m excited to read more!
Hey Katie and thanks for stopping by. I hope you’re enjoying your country respite there in WVA!
Yeah, bears, right? That was interesting to say the least and, like you say, “Holy Bear Claw!”
We’re really loving it here, even with the new changes (like a foot of snow and power/heat being off for 24 hours for Friday 13th). My only regret is not doing it sooner. It may be worth the while to start taking an earnest peek at living opportunities outside of the Philly MSA.
i grew up in the rural/farmland area over 40 years ago. We did not have pumas or bears, but had coyotes and mountain lion sightings. Rabies was the biggest fear since your dogs could be infected from the various wildlife critters such as raccoons, possums, rats, etc. I used to roam around at night with my dog.
After reading your experiences, now I wonder if it was an attempt to weed out their brood.
“Dang it honey, he survived another night”, when I came back through the front door. Ha ha.
Enjoy your time in “Hickville”. Glad you found peace from the chaotic So Cal.
Thanks for stopping by to leave a comment – very appreciated. Yeah, this rural thing with all the critters is definitely a new experience. We also have coyotes up this way, but I’ve not seen any (yet).
Rabies – have not thought about that one, so I can now add that to my worry list. Haha. Glad you and your pup survived your nocturnal wanderings unscathed (& perhaps foiled those nefarious, brood-thinning plans).
Thanks and stay tuned for future reports from ‘Hickville.’
Fantastic descriptions of the So. Cal types, and their rural counterparts. I actually laughed out loud. And of course I appreciated the nod to Liz Phair. As we are about to escape the hustle and bustle of Northeast for the (hopefully) more relaxed locale of central Virginia, I’m hoping that the transition of people and fauna is also a positive one. Good stuff, keep it up.
Thanks for the comment Adam and congrats on the new move. Look forward to reading about your reactions on VA once you’re settled in.
Glad you enjoyed and as it’s obvious I was going for some humor on this one, thrilled that it actually provoked an out loud laugh. High praise, so thanks. Bonus points for digging the Phair reference!
Haha, great stuff. Being from Baltimore whenever I would visit L.A. the sheer number of phony people astounded me. Half the time in L.A. the apparent bum is really just a dude trying to be an actor and too lazy to get a real job. In Baltimore when you see bum, he’s really really effed up. He’s a genuine bum, there’s no fakery going on.
And I’d love to live in Montana or Wyoming one day but the grizzly threat is real, even though I know the chances of being attacked are very small. There’s just a visceral fear around them with me…
Thanks Dave and glad you enjoyed. Bless Karen, Craig and all their superficial ilk in L.A. It’s funny because it’s true as Homer says.
Yeah, the bear thing is wild. I usually take bear spray when I hike the back country and once left it at home when I hiked a small mountain in town thinking it’s far to noisy and “urban” for any bear. It was my surprise when I got to the trailhead there were bear warning signs everywhere. Brave new world up here and I love it.
Why you gotta bash my blue-eyed blonde LA look? HAHA. J/K. The most image I sport around LA nowadays is wearing running shoes, jeans and a T-shirt. My wife is like, “are you really going to where that out?” Hey, I pick comfort over style. Plus, I barely went out that much pre-pandemic, and now it’s once in a blue moon.
I will say I do eat avocado toast almost weekly – home made though so on the cheap, and better in my opinion. So many different ways you can do it.
I love the “weenie-flashing pervs in schoolyards” next to the “sub-prime mortgage lenders” remarks.
Your WIFI shit is hilarious and good for you for making it work – your wife is a champ.
Glad to see you’re enjoying the move. I think I would be just like you plopping down in the mountains and snow country trying to figure it all out with the adventures. It truly sounds fun.
Keep it up and looking forward to the next episode.
Thanks for the comment Q-FI. You know Karen and Craig live large in the city of Angels, dude! Haha. Yep, I’m a jeans and T-shirt guy myself – low key ‘fashion’ as it were.
Agreed, avocado toast rocks because it’s amazing and costs about $0.75 at home as opposed to $15 at Perch.
Yeah man, the WIFI thing can be a bit brutal so fingers crossed that our pals over at Space X get that shit dialed in quickly.
Yep, the move’s been awesome. Checking out winter hiking snow shoes today – looks like a blast!
i really enjoyed the descriptions of the los angeles denizens. when i used to visit santa barbara i would see plenty of bleach blonde pneumatic types who looked straight out of some cartoon. i had to look up perch and they really do have avocado toast on the menu and a particularly pedestrian wine list. i know these places always down near the sports arena.
i kinda grew up with the johnny corndog types but don’t visit there much any longer. for my money you don’t need a whole population of cool, interesting, or well read people. you only need enough of them around to suit your needs, like 5-10 really good ones. those were some large claw marks. i find it interesting with the internet situation as they even have decent internet at the mountain cabin we rent every year. it will probably be sorted out near you soon enough. that long round trip to run errands would annoy me too. rock on.
Thanks for the comment, Freddy. While I was going for a humor piece, ‘Karen’ and ‘Craig’ are real and ubiquitous down there. Yep, Perch is also real & although I inflated the cost of the brunch a bit, it’s still outlandish.
I’m really grateful to have a few cool, new friends here. It really makes a big difference. I’ll shoot you a pic of the ‘Country Bear’ hard cider when it’s done fermenting later this month.
I’m hoping Starlink will be our internet savior, so we’ll see.